Friday, April 24, 2015

Bangkok and Railay, Thailand

March 6th,2015
  Last minute emails and urgent deadline rush. Sending out the last email at 3:30pm, my smile instantly switched when I sat in the backseat of the cab to the airport. Vacation time ! In a new country and with a good friend. How often do vacations like these come by?
   At 10:40pm, the airasia flight landed at Don Muang airport in the city of Bangkok, Thailand. Bangkok has two airports, Don Muang is the Old International airport. After quick navigation, I reached the Visa On Arrival area, to see a long line there and only one counter open and paraphernalia for the process! The photo's that I carried along with me didn't suffice, but luckily they provide the services to take your photo and pin it to the visa form which you'd later have to fill out. After a good 40 minutes in the line, I finally got my form verified by the officials and validated for Visa On Arrival. The things you'd need to get a VOA :
  (a) One Photograph on a white background.
  (b) Visa form with the valid address of place of stay.
  (c) Valid passport with minimum remaining validity of six months.
  (d) Visa fees of 1,000 baht in Thai currency only.
  (e) Tickets of the return journey from Thailand.
  (f)  Thai/other currency equivalent/credit or debit card to show the equivalent of 10,000 Thai baht per person or 20,000 Thai baht per family.

Exited the airport at midnight in a striking pink cab towards the city centre at Sukumvit Road where I had to meet my friend. It was a quiet journey in the middle of the night. The city seemed to be getting it's beauty sleep to be presentable for me by the morning.

The night wasn't over for me, there was one place I'd heard a lot about: Soi Cowboy.
Soi Cowboy is a little stretch of road with only go-go bars and strip clubs. Mostly frequented by tourists and expats. As you walk by this famous red-light area, be ready to be picked by women and enticed to buy a drink or watch a show.My curiosity was dismissed after the short casual walk and we headed home.


March 7th,2015
  An early breakfast of cornflakes and cold strawberry milk is a kick start to the hot day at Bangkok. We took the BTS Skytrain from Ashok station to Saphan Taksin that leads you to the Chao Phraya River transport.
Commendable infrastructure in Bangkok. 

The Flyover, a metro track in between and the river transport below.

From the Chao Phraya, they have boat service to the temples "Wat Arun", "Wat Pho", Grand palace and a few other places. Chao Phraya , loosely translated to "Chief River" is the main artery for transportation in this city. It was a 20 minute boat ride to "Wat Pho" in the muddy waters.

Wat Pho, more commonly known by the name "Temple of Reclining Buddha" is a huge temple complex with stupas (known as Chedis) and shrines with Buddha statues.  The biggest of these shrines has Lord Buddha in the reclining posture rested on his hand. The soft curls on the head and the wide feet with 108 engravings was visually appealing. Visitors were encouraged to drop coins into the 108 copper bowls around the structure, in the belief of receiving good fortune.

Reclining Buddha


I did read somewhere that this place was originally built as a school of Thai medicine. Probably that's why I noticed some stone structures around the complex in yogic poses.

Yogic Poses.

After taking a self tour of Wat Pho, we took the cross-river boat to Wat Arun. The distinctive phrang (tower) of this temple is noticeable from anywhere. The main phrang at that point was under renovation, so we walked around the surrounding phrangs instead. These phrangs are such unique and vividly created using colorful and exquisite looking porcelain.


Porcelain work.
Wat arun.
We headed over to Siam Paragon  for a quick lunch at their food court. Thai food is interesting, but I hadn't started my culinary journey as we decided on eating some neutral Italian food. Trying to fit in the maximum time for the upcoming shopping at Chatuchak market, we cut short our lunch although the desserts looked delicious.
Chatuchak Market !! Where do I start? For the folks who know me, I dislike or better said, shop very rarely and until absolutely necessary. I went in there unbiased and with no will to shop and only pick up a few interesting souvenirs. As I walked passed the numerous stalls filled with assorted tidbits, my will was slowly crumbling like small temptations as the rocks that fall off from the boulder off determination into the sea of consumerism. It had fascinating and creative stuff to choose from, diverse range from tee shirts, junk jewelery to clocks. The shopping took up a great amount of time, but left one feeling exhausted and good about the time and money spent. It was worth the visit.
The things I liked a lot about Bangkok: Infrastructure with good metros, the river transport, pink buses and colorful cabs, the vibrant nightlife,  the stoicism yet warmth of the locals towards the hive of tourists it receives.

March 8th, 2015
  We reached Krabi town around 9am but the bus ride till Ao nammao pier took a very long time after many stops in the town. There are public buses that ply from the airport to the common area in Krabi Town, it's the cheaper option to travel as compared to taking a taxi. From Ao Nammao pier, we took the boat to Railay. The bluish green clear waters and the towering limestone boulders, such a soothing sight. The waters of Thailand , wonderful waters of Thailand.

Closing in on Railay.

Sitting at the head of the motor boat with wind in my hair, bright sunlight on my face and the humming sound of motor, the scene opened up: Railay Beach with white sands and clear emerald waters. We disembarked from the  boat and carried our luggage a small walk away to "Railay Princess Resort ". The accommodation at Railay is on the the higher side, but it is a valid price to pay for privacy. The Railay Princess was fantastic and gets a five star rating from me. We decided to chill out on the gorgeous sands of Railay for the evening. Railay is clearly the best beach I've lounged in. The tide was low and we could walk in a good distance into the sea and the sand was sensuously soft on the feet. Watching the sun get swallowed by the sea and floating in its vast expanse with the mountains towering over us, seemed like nature disapproved yet pampered our existence.

Cooling my heels.

The sun plunged into the sea as we watched the sky emoting different hues. After a good round of Frisbee on the beach, we headed back to feed ourselves a good meal.

Soft sensual sand.

Leaving an imprint on the canvas of earth.
I won't be gone for long.
The "Last bar" was a good find. As the name suggests, being the last bar at the end of the only road in Railay, they had live music. A little after midnight, there was a fire act performance. Very entertaining. Unlike Phi-Phi and Bangkok, railay had a more sober and relaxing vibe about it.

March 9th,2014
The resort had a wide spread of breakfast buffet, enough to stuff us up. We walked towards the view point only to realize it was a steep climb. A climb, with a rope for support. I thoroughly enjoyed it as I reached the view point. The view was phenomenal. Nature is highly under appreciated, the difference of the water on either side of the same bay was remarkable!
Climb to the viewpoint.

The remarkable view from the top.

 Panting my way down from the view point, my mind still remain in disbelief of what I had witnessed. Little did I know that nature has far more to offer here. A little ahead of the way to the viewpoint is the path that leads you to phra nang bay. The path belies the enormous beauty the end of it holds. It was unbelievable.

The path that opens up into the phra nang bay.

phra nang cave and bay

the tempting emerald waters.
As the heat got unbearable, we headed off to some shade and food. Treated myself to Red curry and pad thai which I enjoyed. At 3pm, we had a boat tour of the 7 islands with Sunset and dinner at Poda Island and 2 snorkeling stops and a plankton tour.

Out first destination was Tup island and Si Island. These radiant white sands and shallow waters was heaven to swim in. The highlight of Tup and Si island, is it is connected and only by a strip of white sand. So basically you can walk to Si island from Tup and vice versa in between the vast Andaman ocean. To put you in perspective, we are walking in the middle of the ocean!!
                                    
Taken from a google image search,to give some perspective.

Notice the strip of white sand between the islands.

Notice the darker blue to the left corner of the pic.

Incredible. I continued to shake my head in total disbelief crossing over to Si island. It was overwhelming, the excitement, the beauty, the pristine white sands, the crystal blue waters and the walking on the exact divide where the water to your right is darker blue and getting darker and water on your left is transparent cyan.

The boat took us to Chicken island, the rock juts out looks like a chicken head and visibly does. Our first snorkeling stop, we jumped into the water and snorkeled around for about 20 minutes. Stunning fishes and corals.

Corals.


We headed over to one of the deep water solo diving spots,climbing up a limestone cliff of a head-spinning heights and letting go to jump into waters of depth 80 feet or more. CRAZY for the guys who did do it. I was a silent spectator at the courage of the brave ones, for I didn't possess a fraction of that courage after looking at the cliff and gauging the waters. The adventurous ones swam from their boats towards the limestone cliff face, use a ladder (pre-laid many years before, I suppose), use that to climb up and get a hold to start climbing. Then comes the scary part of climbing free hand, no harness, no shoes, no anything ! Probably the most animal-like natural and shit scary way of climbing there is! One of the Thai locals climbed a dizzy height and plunged into the deep uninviting waters, I caught my breath because this was the first I was seeing someone do such an act. Terrifying for me to watch and exciting nonetheless, but he seemed to have done it far many times before to have even an ounce of fear to do it. 
The dizzy heights.

Ready to jump?


We had another snorkeling spot to cover, we quickly took to the water, I was quietly waddling around with my snorkel masks amazed at the pretty fishes enticing me. The sea beds and rocks had many black sea urchins, a noticed a puffer fish ! two of which I hadn't before. The puffer was small, maybe a young one but an adorable ball of spicules!

Sea urchins.


The sky was orange and the mood was contemplative. It's been one of the best days I've had so far. Our boat halted at Poda Island which opened the view to a magnificent sunset. The gorgeous orange ball sunk into the ocean and we watched remarking at its beauty. The true giver of life, the reason for our existence. I felt overpowered by nature, by her beauty, feeling small and wonder-eyed watching the sun submerge.



Plankton viewing, the next stop. I was quizzical about this one, not even having heard of viewing plankton and wondering however that was possible. Aren't they too minuscule to be seen? And we have to spot them glowing? Are these tour operators robbing us blind? We were all instructed to get down into the dark waters with our snorkel masks. Our instructor asked to create movement inside of the water and keenly notice the glowing dots of plankton around the area of the movement. Wow! it was glowing. Microscopic glowing dots. I was utterly fascinated that I came up to exclaim my child-like joy of seeing something that was not comprehend able.Amazed.
 The boat journey back was silently contemplative, running over my emotions for the beauty I was privileged to see today.

March 10,2015
 To take advantage of the remaining hours in Krabi before we headed back to the airport and our respective countries, we had an early start.
Walking down to Phra nang cave and bay, the beach was isolated, the scene permanently etched in my brain. Sublime.
Since the tide was low, we could walk,swim a good distance into the waters. A small cove was accessible. Private and magical. Finding that was equivalent to discovering new lands, I wonder what the great explorers truly felt like when they did discover our existing countries.  

Morning walk by Phra nang bay.

When we saw the first set of Kayak bring rented out, we rented out ours and start rowing. I hadn't done sea kayaking before and was excited yet anxious to balance the kayak right. With a lot of help from my friend and fellow rower (if I may term it that), we set a pace and headed for the waters around a limestone cave. We reached it and wandered lost along its borders. The sunlight glistened on the clear waters, the depth of which was gorgeously visible. The white sand sea bed, the green glowing fluid above and the pale brown uneven,rugged structures guarding it. It occured to me, this is the best view I've had in my entire life. It was peacefully sublime and overwhelming. Tears of joy rolled down my face. I felt privileged to have witnessed what I did sitting on that kayak  far from the shore in the ocean.
Stunning.

Although this picture might not justify my write up about this place.
I left Krabi knowing that someday I will return to experience everything and more again. I am bewitched by her beauty.
My heart was immensely sad to leave such a lovely place but ironically very happy to have been there. Thank you Krabi, thank you Thailand. It was one of the best vacations I've had.



Monday, October 13, 2014

Flipping through the pages of my history textbook in Cambodia: Day TWO

21st September,2014
Siem Reap

Awake by 5:30 and uncontrolled excitement! The taxi driver was punctual and we set off to buy our tickets to enter Angkor archaeological park ; lack of pre-planning made us spend 20$ again for a one day pass instead of which a three-day pass of 30$ would have saved us 10$ each. Nonetheless, the view was far more valuable than any amount of $$.

Sitting on the library steps and waiting for Mr.Sun to show up, how crowd was building up! Watching the number of people coming in, I was reminded of what the guide told us the day before that I didn't think was plausible at that time but believed with no doubt now; he said an average of 3 million pictures of the Angkor were taken in a day.  Most of us crowded by the lotus pond which is clearly the most scenic to view the three domes of the temple.
6:15 and he rose, made his presence felt to the mere humans who reacted by going camera crazy. The indescribable beauty left ALL of us in a collective meditative trance. Divine, the sunrise was divine. The reflection of  sun rising above temple domes in the humble pond was no doubt the best view I've witnessed so far. The humble pond betrayed the enormous pride it was capable of; for its untold responsibility was immense. I bow my head down to you King Suryavarman II and the exquisite craftsmen who built this place, respect and appreciate the thought and intellect behind the architecture of this place. Many centuries after we continue to pay respect to this captivating structure,so intelligently built to augment the beauty of nature.





Today was a special day, little did we know of this when we planned our trip and it turned out to be our bonus! Today, the 21st of September was two days away from the Equinox and more specifically when the sun shines directly on the equator and the sun rises due east. The exquisiteness with respect to the temple was that the sun rose directly over the central temple dome, a rarity that happens only twice a year.
I hope the picture does little justice to how celestial it really felt.



Feeling grateful to have witnessed this morning, we headed back to the hostel for a quick breakfast.

 BANTEAY SREI :
This 10th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva lies north east of Angkor Thom and took us a journey time of half an hour. The stark difference between Banteay Srei and the temples we went to yesterday is this temple is largely made of red sandstone. Much of it looks like its been ravaged by pilfering and vandalism, but the carvings that remain are elegant. The apsaras, the motifs and the depiction of Lord Shiva. An interesting carving I noticed was that of the fight between Vali and Sugreeva. This temple,for a change was not built by a monarch but by the spiritual leader to King Jayavarman V.  The lotus pond added to the charm with the pink blossomed lotuses.
The smaller temple complex makes a vivd statement with the intricate carvings and pinkish sandstone.






 BENG MEALEA:
  Tucked away to the east of the Angkor , this temple was my favorite visit. The entrance to this broken down temple complex has huge blocks of stone lying in a pile and a broken down naga .This temple is privately owned and an entry ticket of 5$ has to be purchased. This mostly unrestored out-of this world place was built in the 12th century and remains enchanting in shambles. A maze of wooden planks and walkways constructed make it easier to explore around. The generous trees support the existing structures, giving them shape and beauty.I was exploring the temple awestruck and in silence. The emotion was that of romance between the trees and stones, intertwined in love. The inseparable two formed scenic beauty that takes you far away from reality, back in time to a different century. Surreal! I'd strongly urge fellow travelers to include this temple in their itinerary.








BAKONG AND PREAH KO :
   These two smaller temples were devoid of tourists. Bakong is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva  built like a mountain, the structure ascending vertically. The four levels guarded by Rakshas, Nagas, Garudas. Some restoration was going on with wooden scaffolding on one of the towers on the ground which I believe would be one of the libraries.
Preah Ko, was similar to Bakong and one thing I instantly noticed as a Hindu- the Nandi statue. Pleasantly surprised to spot the Nandi Statue (Sacred bull of Lord Shiva).



This was the last of our temple visits in Cambodia.
After the enriching journey in history, we were sadly drawn to the present.

Back in the central town, we wondered what we could do for the evening. After weighing our choices ,we decided to watch "Phare, The Cambodian Circus" and amble about Pub street later that night.

  PHARE, A Cambodian Circus :
This unique entertainment has a great cause behind it. They had a social mission and that of promoting Cambodian modern art and provide sustainable employment to Cambodian youth. The performers for the night did an amazing job! A refreshing and new performance. The performance was Sokrias (the eclipse) ,with a blend of dance, song, acrobatics and interesting storyline, it was thoroughly enjoyable! One of the best I've watched. Hats off to the performers, the high energy, the charming expressions, the dedication. Absolutely worth the money!
Please explore more http://www.pharecambodiancircus.org/circus/ .
Squeeze it in your itinerary when you are in Siem Reap, you won't be disappointed.



We ambled by Pub Street and the night market. Bought small bayon,apsara souvenir and the famous "elephant" print pants.

*Do consider including the other farther off temples in your itineraries, including Koh Ker(the incan temple), Preah Vihear,  Kbal Spean(The valley of a 1000 lingas), the waterfall at Phnom Kulen (the mountain from where the stones used to build the Angkor Vat were sourced).
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 The "one dollar, my lady" ringing in my ear as I board the flight for KL.Thank you Cambodia for a unique vacation!





Flipping through the pages of my history textbook in Cambodia: Day ONE

Siem Reap province is located in the northwest of the Kingdom of Cambodia. It translates literally to "Defeat of Siam"; Siam refers to Thailand.
 It boasts of the Angkor Wat ,the largest religious structure in the world and attracts about 3 million tourists a year, one of the most visited places in South East Asia.
Here's my account of the visit to Siem Reap.

20th September,2014
Siem Reap

Stepping into the humid sticky heat of Siem Reap on a Saturday morning, our vacation began. The airport is small and you can't get lost even if you try. The Visa On Arrival (VOA) counter was to our left as soon as we walked into the airport. The process was simple and fast involving filling up  of the visa application,one passport size photo and visa fees of 20$. Once submitted, a page is attached to your passport with a validity of 1 month. Took a 5$ tuk-tuk ride to the hostel we were staying at, Jasmine Family Hostel. The room wasn't cleaned out yet,so we left our bags at the reception albeit the passport and important things. Over a quick breakfast ,we drew circles on the map of the Angkor planning the day ahead.





        We had emailed Sam Pho(http://www.angkordriver-sam.com/), a tour guide about our arrival and possible itineraries before coming to Angkor. Very impressed with his promptness in replies and detailed suggested itinerary ,we decided to go ahead with him. Greeted by Mr. Pol and tuk-tuk driver Mr.Hoy at 10:30am, we began our temple visits!
 

ANGKOR WAT :
   You must posses a temple pass to visit the temples in the Angkor Archeaological Park. You can purchase the passes for a day,three days or seven days. We bought the one day pass that cost 20$. The passes are checked for at the entrance of every major temple, so make sure to keep them somewhere safe.My romancing with the breeze and tall trees that lined the road was cut short by the sight of a huge lake, the broad man-made moat around the mighty Angkor Wat. The reflection of the Angkor outer wall on the rather clean moat water was stunning. Stone lions with missing tails (because the plunderers stole the iron rod used in the tail) and Nagas(mythological Snake) flank the causeway across the moat.   Angkor literally means "city" and wat means "temple". King Suryavarman II and is men  took over 37 years to complete the temple structure as we see it today and work started on it in the 11th century. Angkor was the capital then and temple is dedicated to Hindu God, Lord Vishnu. We saw the three beautiful domes of the main temple as we entered in through the outer gate. There is a long causeway connecting the outer enclosure to the main temple. One doesn't realize the vastness of area until you enter past the outer gate. HUGE! 400 sq km and well maintained.  Manicured gardens and lush green on either side. Libraries are pressent on either side, one for the women and other for the men or one for higher sect of people and the other for the lower sect (Hindus had a prevalent caste system). A lotus pond on the left, in the garden gives the best photographic opportunity to capture the reflection of the main temple. The temple is stunning, every meticulous carving, the planned architecture, the stories on the walls. One wide wall has the entire epic "Mahabharatha" carved on it precisely. Another wide wall with epic "Ramayana". Another with churning of the cosmic ocean where Lord Vishnu is in the Koorma Avatar (Tortoise holding the mountain on his back to prevent it from dissolving while the churning happens). One with King Suryavarman II ,the monarch himself and the life in those times. The heart of the temple is the central tower with steep stairs leading to an idol of Lord Buddha ,although I read the history that says an idol of Lord Vishnu was here.  The temple was converted into a Buddhist one (and still remains so) in the 14th century by the Kings ruling at that time.
The temple lives up to the hype and more than that. Unbelievable architecture and precision and to think of the timeline when it was built.





View from the library


The King Suryavarman II

                                                         


One of the libraries


The Buddhist influence.
     

The library for the Brahmins.




After a tiring 90 minutes around the Angkor Wat and it's many towers, we headed to Ta Prohm in the tuk-tuk. Hoy was kind enough to provide us with chilled water and a wet tissue. We passed by  Bantaey Kdei on the way to Ta Prohm and glanced at it. Bantaey Kdei was built by Jayavarman VII  dedicated to his teacher. The route also showed us Srah Srang reservoir, or a "royal bathing pool", vast! Quite a swimming the king wanted!

TA PROHM:
       We exited Angkor Thom through the "Victory gate"  to reach the famous "Tomb Raider" temple. Was originally called "RajaVihara", came to be known as Ta Prohm, and now as the Tomb Raider temple. Was constructed by Jayavarman VII and is dedicated to his mother. The beauty of this temple lies in its relationship with nature. The big silk-cotton trees grown on the ruins and beautifully so. The big towering trees look like they own the ruins. Not much remains of this structure and a few scenic pictures, we headed out to get some lunch.


The famous tree structure that holds uncanny resemblance to that of a buttock!


                                                               Spot the dinosaur!                                                        

We stopped for lunch at a place a little off Ta Prohm and in an attempt to try local cuisine, we ordered for the vegetarian version of "Amok" along with some rice and a soup , if my memory recalls correctly "Khmer soup". DELICIOUS!

TERRACE OF THE LEPER KING AND TERRACE OF ELEPHANTS:
     We then explored the terrace of the leper king and the terrace of the elephants. Both the terraces are alongside each other. Opposite the terrace are two broken down structures and a field where the King would be entertained. The terrace was a podium for the King Jayavarman VII to view his victorious army returning. The terrace of the Leper King is called thus because of the statue of the king, the original is kept safe at the National Museum at Phnom Penh, and the one here is the copy. The statue with no fists and a shorter structure. Some historians also believed that Jayavarman VII was a leper,although there is no evidence supporting it.
     The bas-reliefs are mostly elephants and apsaras. But most of all,the one I was impressed by was that of an angry guard.
The Angry Guard



BAYON TEMPLE:
    Our next stop was Bayon Temple. By far the temple I enjoyed most because of the symmetrical carved smiling Buddha faces.It is believed that King Jayavarman VII built this temple for himself and to signify the 54 provinces he ruled. It is geographically placed at the center of Angkor city but built many years after Angkor Wat. The four faces in each signify different traits including those of sympathy and compassion. The uniqueness yet perfect symmetric of the faces intrigued me,impressive.The boddisattva looks at peace. The stories of a common man's life at Angkor crafted on the walls were interesting and not far from life as we know it today.
    We took the quintessential picture of the nose touching that of a smiling buddha face! the cheap camera trick with hilarious outcome.

With a choice of watching sunset at the hill Phnom Bakheng and the other temple of Preah Khan, we chose the latter. Watching the sunset from Bakheng Hill is mostly on every tourist's itinerary,we saved it for the following day.






We exited Angkor Thom through the North gate.

PREAH KHAN:
    The king Jayavarman VII dedicated this temple to his father. This temple I noticed had many shiv lingams and also structures with buddha in hermit pose.One of the walls had Lord Vishnu in the sleeping pose as well. The temple is spread over a wide area and most of it in ruins. Nonetheless, this temple had lesser crowd and a huge relief to be able to explore it in peace.
Having some time to spare before heading back, we relaxed our tired legs on top of the building next to the library with a view of the ruins. I sat there in that peace contemplating on how life would have been during Jayavarman's reign. The King and his royal family lived a grand life.



The headless guards.


For some strange reason,they only cut off the heads.

Hermit Pose


We exited the walled city through the south gate, with demons gods on one side and devas on the other, holding the naga or the snake and churning the cosmic ocean(Hindu Mythology). Of all the gates we went by today,the South gate is the best preserved.

South gate with the devas and asuras on either side.



The guide told us about Koulen Restaurant which has Apsara dance shows every night and a buffet dinner of local cuisine. We decided to try it out. The buffet was extensive but the vegetarian that I am, my options were limited. The places were booked,but we managed to get decent seats where we could view the dance. The talented pretty ladies swayed gracefully to the music, there is a striking similarity to Bharathanatyam, although the movements in the dance are subtle and slow.

The tuk tuk ride of 15$ along with the guide fees 35$ seemed well worth it. Back at the hostel, we checked with Sam Pho on our itinerary for the following day ; Watch Sunrise over the Angkor, Bantaey Srei, Beng Melea, Bakong, Preah Ko and spend the night at Pub Street. He suggested we hire a taxi as these temples are farther off from Angkor Thom.

Retired for the night anticipating a great view of sunrise in the morning.